Tutorials // How to install the Olsson Block on an Ultimaker 2

20 July 2015

The standard head of the Ultimaker 2 is very effective, but there’s one big limitation: we can’t change the nozzle easily.

Anders Olsson, is an Ultimaker 2 user, during his research he had to print a lot of very abrasive material, making him change frequently the whole head of his printer. Being annoyed by that he decided to work on a new design for the head to adapt E3D nozzles, this is how the Olsson Block was born!

You can find more information on the Ultimaker forum or on the main reseller website 3DSolex.com.

All the products developped by 3DSolex are now available in my webshop!

Changing the head of the Ultimaker 2 can be frightening, but don’t be afraid it’s very easy to do. If you already dismantled the head, the change can be done easily in 10 minutes.

I will explain two different techniques to install the Olsson Block. The first technique is the easiest, you don’t need to dismantle the whole head, if you’re just changing the heater block go for this one! The second technique has to be done if you want to change the Teflon insulator or add an I2K insulator.

If you happen to damage the temperature sensor while removing you can read this explanation that details how to change it.

If you want to change the fan shroud, a short explanation can be found here!

Warning: The first technique can damage the steel coupler. If you feel any resistance, it’s advised to use the second technique. The steel coupler can break or be damaged easily. It’s recommended to heat it up before unscrewing. The second technique will allow you to put the screwdriver in two holes instead of one, this will make it easier to unscrew it without damage.

How to change it in video:

First technique

We are going to use this technique on the Ultimaker 2 Go. To simplify the steps, i will not detail the changing of the side fans shroud (which i did after), The second technique contains some explanations about this.

This is how the original head looks like:

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First unscrew the fan shroud, there are two screws at each side.

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To take the head off, you need to turn the steel coupler (the metal part just below the white teflon and spring). To do so, put a screw driver in the holes.

If it doesnt turn warm up the nozzle!

Warning: This technique can damage the steel coupler. If you feel any resistance, it’s advised to use the second technique. The steel coupler can break or be damaged easily. It’s recommended to heat it up before unscrewing. The second technique will allow you to put the screwdriver in two holes instead of one, this will make it easier to unscrew it without damage.

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Turn anti-clock wise, it takes some time because you have little space (specially in the Ultimaker 2 Go!)

Once the steel coupler is unscrewed the heat block comes off.

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Unscrew the screw that holds the temperature sensor and the heater cartridge in place. Personnally I used a Torx key (T6), that work better than hexa keys.

 

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The heater cartridge should come out easily

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Next step is to take the temperature sensor out. It’s very sensitive and can break easily. Most of the time it’s stuck in the block. To avoid waiting in case you break it, you can order a temp sensor at3DSolex at the same time you order the Olsson Block.

To take it off I use a pair of tweezers, grab the sensor to the closest possible of the heat block, and push the tweezer against the heat block to have a lever effect. This will pull out the sensor slowly and avoid destroying the cables. (A picture is shown in the second technique) If you’re unlucky, or if it’s stuck too much and breaks, you’ll have to replace it. Heating up can also help to remove it.

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To check that the temp sensor is still working, turn the printer on, go to the Maintenance Menu and select Heatup Nozzle.

You will see something like this:

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Take the sensor between two fingers and the temperature should raise

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If at printer start you have the error message TEMP SENSOR ERROR, i’m afraid you have to replace the temp sensor!

Time to mount the Olsson Block:

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The Olsson block is composed of a heat block and a screw to hold the temperature sensor and heater cartridge in place. This screw is screwed from the bottom (not as the original screw). The space for the sensor is slightly bigger than the original one making the change easier (less risk of destroying it).

Instead of having a fixed nozzle, the Olsson block allows to change the nozzle with any M6 Nozzle.

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First insert the heater cartridge and the temperature sensor. Screw slightly the screw that holds them in place, we will tighten it when the block is placed as it should (the cables will get back to the original position).

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The put the heating block in place. The screw goes in the hole of the bottom metal plate. The steel coupler can be screwed with a screwdriver. It’s better to heatup the nozzle (and the coupler) before doing this.

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There needs to be a space of 1mm between the steel coupler and the Teflon insulator.

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Last thing to do is put back the fan shroud, install the nozzle you want (heatup nozzle before screwing it) and start printing!

Before starting to print you must do the buildplate level again or the head will crash in it!!

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The standard fan shroud can cause some problems because it can be in contact with the heat block. This can cause some error message (Heater Error – Temp sensor Error). To avoid these problems i advise to print and install an better fan shroud. You can find some on Youmagine, in the second technique I explain how to change it and what fan shroud I choose.

 


 

Second technique

Go for this technique if you want to change your Teflon insulator or add an I2K insulator as well as changing the heat block. I will do this on the Ultimaker 2 Extended, because there is a heated bed, i will probably print with some filaments like Colorfabb XT or other filaments that need higher print temperature. The I2K insulator will help to increase the life of my Telfon insulator.

I will also change the fan shroud to have a better air flow, and to have one that is more adapted to the Olsson Block. I choose this one which protects that sensors from unwanted air flow.

This fan shroud is printed in Colorfabb XT to resist to the surrounding heat. To install it add spacers to the right long screws.

First step

Unmount the fan shroud, first take the fans off by unscrewing the four screws on each one:

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Then take the two screws that hold the metal fan shroud:

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The head without the fan shroud:

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Second step

Unmount the head block.

Remove the bowden. Take the blue clip away, push the white collet down, and pull the tube. The white collet has to be pushed down or the bowden tube will not move. No need to put some force here, it should come out easily.

Then unscrew the four long screws.

The head at this step:

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To make your life easier tape down the fans to one of the rods:

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Unmount the metal part that holds the spring in place, there are two screws on the top to remove. Hold the metal plate when unscrewing because the spring might pop out!

Here are all the unmounted pieces at this step:

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The state of the head:

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The Teflon insulator (white part) should come out easily. It’s not fixed, if needed take it out with a pair of tweezers. It’s a good time to check it’s state and to change it if needed!

Unscrew the steel coupler, it’s better to heatup at this step to avoid breaking it. Use a screwdriver and put it in the coupler holes to unscrew. This will free the heat block.
Make your life easier by taping the bottom metal part that holds the back fan on one of the rods.

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Third step

Dismantle the heat block, this is the delicate part.

Unscrew the screw that holds the temperature sensor and the heater cartridge in place. Personnally I used a Torx key (T6), that work better than hexa keys.

 

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The heater cartridge should come out easily

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Next step is to take the temperature sensor out. It’s very sensitive and can break easily. Most of the time it’s stuck in the block. To avoid waiting in case you break it, you can order a temp sensor at3DSolex at the same time you order the Olsson Block.

To take it off I use a pair of tweezers, grab the sensor to the closest possible of the heat block, and push the tweezer against the heat block to have a lever effect. This will pull out the sensor slowly and avoid destroying the cables.

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If you’re unlucky, or if it’s stuck too much and breaks, you’ll have to replace it. Heating up can also help to remove it.

The temp sensor and the heater cartridge:

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To check that the temp sensor is still working, turn the printer on, go to the Maintenance Menu and select Heatup Nozzle.

You will see something like this:

20150523_165336

Take the sensor between two fingers and the temperature should raise

20150523_165354

If at printer start you have the error message TEMP SENSOR ERROR, i’m afraid you have to replace the temp sensor!

These are all the pieces taken out at this step:

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Fourth step:

Mount the new block.

First insert the temperature sensor and the heater cartridge:

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Hold them in place with the screw (no need to force). Then put the heat bloc back in the metal part with the steel coupler. (It’s better to heatup before screwing the coupler back). We will fine tune later.

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Add the Teflon and adjust the steel coupler to have a space of 1mm between them.

If you add the I2K insulator, you have to put it before the Teflon in the coupler. The coupler must be screwed to maximum to have an increased pressure from the spring (this will make sure the pressure between the I2K and Teflon is good).

Heatup before screwing the coupler!

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Put the spring back and hold it in place with the top metal part.

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Put the four big screws back

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Last thing to do is put the fan shroud, i’ve have decided to change the fan shroud, to have a better air flow, and to have one that is more adapted to the Olsson Block. I choose this one which protects that sensors from unwanted air flow.

This fan shroud is printed in Colorfabb XT to resist to the surrounding heat. To install it add spacers to the right long screws.

You can put the original fan shroud but avoid it to touch the heat block, with an I2K insulator this can be done with no problems, the heat block will be slightly higher.

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Screw the nozzle you want (Heatup nozzle before!)

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Here you go, the Olsson block is installed

Before starting to print you must do the buildplate level again or the head will crash in it!!

Let’s print!

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All the products developped by 3DSolex are now available in my webshop!

3DSolex created several sizes of nozzles: 0.25mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm and even 1mm! Buy them here!

There are also stainless Steel nozzles to print abrassive filaments like Colorfabb XT-CF20 (Carbon) or GlowFill.

The Olsson block is compatible with E3D nozzles and DeltaTower nozzles.

You can also but the temperature sensor and the heater cartridge for the Ultimaker 2, or get yourself spare Telflon or the I2K insulator to increase the lifetime of your Teflon if you print at high temperatures

Here’s a video of the Ultimaker 2 with a 1mm nozzle that prints a vase in spiralize mode with layers of 0.5mm. The vase hase the maximum height of the printer (200mm) and the print only took 1h30, this is totally impossible with the standard nozzle.

If you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me here or on theUltimaker forum!

Change the temperature sensor

If you read this, then you have been unlucky pulling out the temperature sensor. Here’s how to change it. Thanks to Nils Brönner for the pictures and instructions.

At first you have to remove the metal cover from the main board. Therefore you have to unscrew the following two screws (marked with red rectangle). These are normal allen key screws with counter nuts.

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Remove the metal cover and locate the tube for the print head cables, remove the old temp sensor (it is connect to TEMP1 on the mainboard).

To remove follow these steps:

Unplug the temperature sensor.

Remove the plastic cover from the connector of the sensor by pushing down the metal clamps which hold the two wires in the housing.

To get the wires through the tube for the wires you have to tape them with the blue tape to make it less sticky. Otherwise the connectors of the wire might get stuck in the tube.

Carefully pull the temperature sensor wires out from the print head perspective.

Remove the blue tape and reassemble the housing to the wire (if needed). You can skip this step if you just want it as a replacement.

Now proceed with the new temperature sensor

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Now take the new sensor end and push it through the tube. Be carefully, especially when reaching the end of the tube at the print head.

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Use the connector of the sensor and connect it to TEMP1 on the mainboard.

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Now reassemble the cover. Be very careful about the wires.

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